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Furnace Install & Maintenance
Furnace
Troubleshooting Guide
Furnace Won’t Turn On
Check These First:
Thermostat → Set to Heat and above room temp. Replace batteries if needed.
Power switch → Furnace switch (often looks like a light switch) might be off.
Tripped breaker → Reset at the electrical panel.
Blown fuse on control board → Check 3A fuse on circuit board.
No Heat or Not Enough Heat
Common Causes & Fixes:
Clogged filter → Replace filter (every 1–3 months).
Flame sensor dirty → Clean with fine sandpaper or emery cloth.
Gas valve closed → Make sure valve is open and line is not blocked.
Ignitor failure → Test for cracks or no resistance. Replace if faulty.
Limit switch open → Can be due to overheating from restricted airflow.
Furnace Clicking but Not Igniting
Check:
Ignitor → Should glow orange before ignition. If not, replace.
Flame sensor → May not detect flame, causing system to shut down.
Pressure switch → Check for proper vacuum and hose connections.
Blocked flue or vent → Birds’ nests or debris can stop ignition.
Furnace Starts, Then Shuts Off
Likely Causes:
Dirty flame sensor → Won’t confirm flame—shuts off gas.
Overheating → Due to dirty filter or blower issues, causing limit switch to trip.
Pressure switch failure → Venting issue or condensate blockage.
Blower Runs Constantly
Why it Happens:
Fan set to ON at thermostat → Switch to AUTO.
Limit switch stuck closed → Replace or test with multimeter.
Control board issue → May need replacement.
Strange Noises (Banging, Squealing, Rattling)
Noise Types & Fixes:
Banging → Delayed ignition—clean burners or check gas pressure.
Squealing → Worn blower belt or motor bearings.
Rattling → Loose panel or ductwork.
Error Codes (Blinking Lights on Control Board)
Flash Codes Example (Varies by brand):
1 flash → Ignition failure.
2 flashes → Pressure switch stuck closed.
3 flashes → Pressure switch stuck open.
4 flashes → Limit switch open (overheat).
5 flashes → Flame not sensed.
(Refer to the inside panel of the furnace door or manufacturer manual for your model’s exact code chart.)
AC Install & Maintenance
AC
Troubleshooting Guide
AC Not Turning On
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Tripped breaker or blown fuse → Check electrical panel.
Thermostat issue → Replace batteries or check settings (set to “Cool” and below room temp).
Disconnected or faulty float switch → Check the condensate line; if clogged, it may trigger a float switch to stop the system.
Blown transformer or control board issue → Check low voltage at the control board.
AC Blowing Warm Air
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Dirty air filter → Replace filter (low airflow = coil freeze or overheat).
Low refrigerant → Check for leaks, recharge system.
Condenser coil dirty → Clean outdoor coil with coil cleaner or water spray.
Compressor not running → Check capacitor or contactor.
Reversing valve stuck (heat pump) → Check voltage at solenoid.
Weak Airflow
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Dirty filter or coil → Replace filter, clean evaporator coil.
Blower motor issue → Check motor capacitor or replace motor.
Ductwork leaks or obstructions → Inspect for collapsed or disconnected ducts.
AC Short Cycling (Turning On/Off Rapidly)
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Oversized system → Not much you can do except adjust airflow or replace with right size.
Thermostat near heat source → Relocate thermostat if possible.
Low refrigerant or dirty coils → Service the unit and check for leaks.
AC Making Strange Noises
Common Sounds & Fixes:
Buzzing → Check contactor or capacitor.
Grinding or squealing → Blower motor bearings or belt issue.
Clicking but no startup → Possibly a bad capacitor or relay.
Water Leaking Inside (From Air Handler)
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Clogged drain line → Use vacuum or CO2 to clear.
Disconnected drain pipe → Reattach and seal.
Frozen coil → Low refrigerant or airflow issue; defrost and fix root cause.
High Energy Bills / Unit Runs Constantly
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Dirty coils or filter → Clean/replace.
Low refrigerant → Check for leaks.
Undersized system or insulation issues → Check load calculations and building envelope.
Tankless Services
Tankless System
Troubleshooting Guide
No Hot Water
Possible Causes & Fixes:
No power or gas → Check circuit breakers or gas supply.
Ignition failure → Ensure gas valve is open and there's no air in the gas line.
Cold weather issues → If it's freezing, the unit may be frozen—use a space heater to thaw pipes.
Flow rate too low → Open multiple faucets to see if the unit kicks on.
Water Too Hot or Too Cold
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Dirty inlet filter → Clean the water inlet filter.
Temperature set too high or too low → Adjust thermostat.
Crossed hot/cold pipes → Shut off cold water, open a hot tap. If water still flows, there's a cross-connection.
Fluctuating gas pressure → Check gas supply or regulator.
Mineral buildup in heat exchanger → Descale the unit with vinegar or a descaling solution.
Burner Won’t Ignite
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Gas valve closed → Open the gas valve.
Igniter failure → Check for a clicking sound or spark at ignition. Replace if needed.
Blocked vent or exhaust → Clear any debris or blockages in the vent.
Low gas pressure → Check supply line and regulator.
Unit Shuts Off Mid-Use
Possible Causes & Fixes:
Overloaded system → Reduce demand (don’t run multiple fixtures at once).
Overheating shutdown → Clean air intake and heat exchanger.
Improper venting → Ensure proper clearance and no obstructions.
Dirty flame sensor → Clean or replace flame sensor.
Heat Pump Services (Heating & Cooling)
Heat Pump System
Troubleshooting Guide
Heat Pump Not Turning On
Check First:
Thermostat settings → Set to Heat or Cool, and make sure temp is higher/lower than room temp.
Breaker/fuse → Check outdoor and indoor units (there are usually 2 breakers).
Disconnect switch → Ensure it's fully plugged in at outdoor unit.
Blown transformer or low-voltage issue → Check for 24v at board.
Not Heating or Cooling Properly
Check These:
Dirty air filter → Replace or clean filter.
Low refrigerant → Causes low pressure and poor heat transfer.
Reversing valve stuck → Won’t switch between heat/cool modes. Test solenoid.
Thermostat calibration → May be reading wrong indoor temps.
Outdoor coil iced up (in heating mode) → See below for defrost issues.
Outdoor Unit Icing Up (In Heating Mode)
What’s Normal vs Not:
Light frost = Normal in cold weather.
Heavy ice buildup = Problem.
Fixes:
Defrost mode not working → Test defrost sensor, board, and reversing valve.
Fan motor failure → Outdoor fan should run in heating unless in defrost.
Low refrigerant → Can cause freezing due to low pressure.
Runs Constantly / Won’t Shut Off
Possible Causes:
Extremely cold temps → Heat pump will run long; aux/emergency heat may need to assist.
Undersized system → May not meet load.
Reversing valve stuck → Stuck in wrong mode.
Thermostat call stuck → Check if it's stuck in demand mode (Y, W, or O/B energized constantly).
Heat Pump Blowing Cold Air in Heating Mode
Top Suspects:
Reversing valve issue → Test for 24v at O/B wire.
Defrost cycle → Temporarily blows cold during cycle—normal, lasts 2–10 minutes.
Outdoor coil iced over → Forces unit into defrost more often, poor heating performance.
Low refrigerant → Poor heat absorption.
Unit Turns On and Off Rapidly (Short Cycling)
Likely Causes:
Oversized system → Can’t be fully corrected except with new equipment.
Thermostat placement → Near vents or heat source?
Dirty coils or filter → Leads to overheating.
Low refrigerant → Affects compressor operation.
Indoor Unit is Leaking Water (in Cooling Mode)
Usual Issues:
Clogged condensate line → Blow out with nitrogen or vacuum.
Broken float switch → Replace or test wiring.
Frozen coil thawing out → Could be due to low refrigerant or bad airflow.
Water Heater Services (Heating & Cooling)
Water Heater System
Troubleshooting Guide
For Gas - No Hot Water
Check:
Gas supply is on.
Pilot light is lit.
Thermocouple is working.
Burner assembly is clean.
❗ Fix: Relight the pilot or replace the thermocouple if faulty.
For Gas - Water Not Hot Enough
Check:
Thermostat setting (should be 120–140°F).
Sediment buildup in the tank.
Gas burner for proper flame.
❗ Fix: Flush the tank to remove sediment, adjust thermostat, or clean burner.
For Gas - Pilot Won't Stay Lit
Check:
Thermocouple is properly positioned and working.
Gas control valve.
❗ Fix: Replace thermocouple or gas valve if necessary.
For Gas - Water is Too Hot
Check:
Thermostat setting.
❗ Fix: Adjust thermostat to a lower temperature.
For Gas - Leaking Water Heater
Check:
Drain valve (tighten if loose).
Tank itself (corrosion may indicate replacement needed).
❗ Fix: Replace valve or the entire unit if tank is leaking.
For Electric - Water Heaters No Hot Water
Check:
Circuit breaker (reset if tripped).
Upper thermostat or heating element.
❗ Fix: Replace faulty heating element or thermostat.
For Electric - Not Enough Hot Water
Check:
Both heating elements are working.
Sediment buildup in the tank.
❗ Fix: Flush tank, replace faulty heating element.
For Electric - Water Too Hot
Check:
Thermostat setting.
❗ Fix: Adjust to 120–140°F.
For Electric - Leaking Tank
Check:
Loose heating element gasket.
T&P (temperature & pressure) relief valve.
❗ Fix: Tighten or replace gasket, replace T&P valve if needed.
Our price plan
Where Comfort Meets
Efficiency
$299
was $399
BASIC MAINTENANCE
Furnace Inspection- Air Conditioner (AC) Check
- Thermostat Function Check
- Water Heater Tank Inspection
$449
was $549
PRO MAINTENANCE
- Includes everything in the Basic package
- Dial test (gas leaking check from meter)
- Outdoor AC evaporator coil cleaning
- Water heater tank flush (prevents sediment buildup)